Fitting Instructions

Floating Shelves and Mantels


Floating shelves or mantels should be mounted on to exterior walls or interior stone and breezeblock walls. They can only be mounted to partition walls if you can locate the timber studs or noggins behind the plasterboard. The supporting brackets must have something solid to screw into.


For partition walls, we can position the holes into the shelf accordingly for you – simply let us know where you need them. Please call us for any advice, but if you cannot locate the studs or noggins, we advise using our rustic shelves with brackets.

The concealed fixing brackets we supply with all of our floating shelves are the most versatile and heavy-duty fixings available. These simple-to-fit brackets will hold up to 35kgs between 2 brackets (including the weight of shelf). Shelves over 1200mm in length are supplied with 3 brackets, and over 2100mm with 4 brackets.

Floating Shelves Installation tools
- Spirit level
- Drill (with 10mm drill bit)
- Spanner (10mm or adjustable)
- Tape Measure
- Pencil


Step One – Safety (very important)
Use a wire/pipe power detector to ensure that there are no electrical cables or water pipes in the wall where you intend to position the shelf. You do not want to electrocute yourself or flood the house!

Step Two – Position
If you are fixing to an internal stud wall, locate the studs or noggins that you intend to drill into.

Step Three – Draw a level line

Helpful hint - if you put the spirit level on the back of the shelf first and mark where the centres of the hole are you can use these to mark where you need to drill. If this is done you can skip step four.


Use the spirit level and a pencil to mark either the holes you drew on the spirit level or draw a perfectly horizontal line along the area of the wall where you intend to mount the shelf. If your spirit level has a measure on it, draw the line to the full length of the shelf. If not, use a tape measure and redraw the line a couple of times, until it is the same length of the shelf.

Step Four – Mark holes for brackets
Usual method – Measure from the centre of the pre-drilled holes in your shelf to the nearest end of the shelf and transfer these measurements onto the line you have drawn on the wall.
Alternative method – Offer the shelf up to the wall (with the pre-drilled holes facing upwards) and mark the centre of the holes onto your drawn line.
Don’t fret if your positioning isn’t absolutely perfect but if you do spend the time trying to position your marks as accurately as possible it will make the rest of the procedure effortless.

Step Five – Drill into the wall (Make sure you have carried out step one!)
Use a 10mm wood drill bit for studded walls or 10mm masonry bit for stone, brick or breezeblock walls. Drill into the walls on the dead centre point of all your bracket markings. Drill holes 60mm deep into the wall to fully accommodate the rawl plug.

Step Six – Insert rawl plugs
Insert the supplied rawl plugs into the drilled holes. Ensure that the rawl plug are fully inserted and they all sit flush to the wall – tap with a hammer if necessary. If any of your rawl plugs are sticking out, they will prevent your shelf from sitting flush to the wall when mounted.

Step Seven – Insert concealed brackets
Screw the concealed brackets all the way to the wall using a 10mm, or adjustable spanner – but do not fully tighten them at this point.
If necessary, pliers can be used for this task but it is not recommended – a suitable spanner is a lot easier.


Please note that using the supplied washer will strengthen the overall support of the shelf but will also produce a small 1.5mm gap between the wall and the shelf. If you don’t intend to store heavy weights on the shelf you can dispense with the washer to the shelf fits completely snug to the wall.

Step Eight – Fix the shelf.
Now the brackets are tightened and level, slide the shelf off the brackets. Slide the shelf back onto the brackets push fully up to the wall (sometimes requires a bit of force).